One of the most spectacularly beautiful parts of Germany is the region covered by the Upper Palatinate and Lower Bavaria. This ancient area is dominated by the dark and beautiful Bavarian Forest which has in its essence changed little since the barbarian tribes faced and sometimes even defeated the mighty Roman legions here almost two thousand years ago.
Today it has lost none of its romance and mystery, and as cheap flights are so readily available these days it makes a great holiday destination throughout the year. It’s particularly charming in spring and autumn, when the forest is resurrecting itself in a fantastic display of colour or dying back with equally spectacular aplomb.
Regensburg, Passau and Landshut are the major cities here. These great cities have not received the same amount of tourist attentions as their cousins in the west of the country such as Cologne, so they have lost very little of their medieval charm. Hidden treasures dot the landscape for any traveller passing through the region, and in fact these provinces are still something of a well kept secret, so visiting them will be something magical even in this country of very special experiences.
Germany is renowned for its efficient public transport and this is the best way of accessing these towns and cities. If you intend to travel around by car, on the other hand, you’ll find that the vast Bavarian Forest with its network of modern roads makes for the perfect touring holiday.
Regensburg is an ancient Free City, left untouched by the war and still not firmly nailed to the tourist map, and it’s a great place to head for as an introduction to this exquisite region of Germany. It’s dripping in rich history, and doesn’t try to hide the fact.
Regensburg was the ancient seat of Imperial Diets which decided the fate of whole nations in late medieval times, and its buildings have been jealously preserved, constituting a veritable feast of fairytale architecture for the romantically-historically inclined, and which of us isn’t? There is, for example, a restaurant in the city which has been serving up delicious regional sausages since the 12th century.
Regensburg, spared the ravages of war, was never reconstructed like so many other flattened German cities, and everything is original. It’s the place to come for pure history that has dodged being reduplicated, and the city’s streets have never been twisted into the grids required by modern town planners.
As with all medieval cities, it sprawls around its cathedral. The towers of this central bulk date only from the 19th century but its interior belongs to another world entirely. Brilliant stained glass punctuates a treacly blackness and the lighting is second only to the likes of Chartres in its brilliance and overwhelmingly mystic effect. The Old Corn Exchange dates from the middle ages too, and is lined with some of the city’s oldest half-timber buildings.
The whole city has been preserved intact, and even its Roman remains are awesome. Augsburg has an atmosphere of great age that seems to personify the German spirit, and is the destination of choice for anyone with a passion for the past and conservation.